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JUN. JUL 2018 IV AT PAGE 16 COVER STORY It’s not a kitchen for women Attentive, curious about the world around them, stubborn and determined: why then are less than eight out of a hundred chefs women? We asked those directly involved, who told us their (successful) story, about it. By Anna Muzio It’s not a kitchen for women. Especially when talking about chefs, the chiefs of the brigade (military language which was introduced by a man, Auguste Escoffier). Women represent 4% of the world’s star-rated chefs, with an Italian “record” of 45 out of 343, or 7.2%. But something is changing in the kitchen. A signal comes from awards such as the ‘Michelin Female Chef’ and the ‘Best Female Chef’ of the 50 Best Restaurants. We asked some of the protagonists from the national catering industry to tell us about their kitchens. And we decided to start from one of the youngest Michelin ‘stars’, Caterina Ceraudo (to whom we dedicate our cover). YOUNG PROMISE Thirty years old and the soul of Dattilo, a restaurant in a seventeenth- century oil mill on the family’s organic farm in Strongoli (KR), she won the first edition of the prize in 2017: “It was a unique feeling, but I immediately asked myself why I had won and I wanted to continue improving. It certainly amplified the fame of the restaurant but also the expectations of customers. It’s a positive award because this is a difficult time for women chefs. It’s said to be a demanding job but I think today that’s true of any job, there are women managers who spend 12 hours in the office, women in the medical profession, but a woman in charge of a kitchen is still an exception: I think it’s a problem of mentality. After graduating from Pisa in oenology, Caterina returned home to the star-rated restaurant of the family business. “I wanted to stay in my territory, make an important contribution”. After an experience in the school of Niko Romito “to have an all-round knowledge of the world of food and wine” she took the reins of the kitchen: “and there was the star to maintain. After a few months it was reconfirmed. I walked in on eggshells, I had to understand and learn but then I changed everything, mine is a kitchen that demonstrates ingredients. You have to dream and be courageous. Difficulties? “To convince my parents, in particular, to trust me.” In the kitchen? “To gain leadership you don’t need to raise your voice but set an example, make it clear that the work can be done in a fun way even if taken seriously. And create teamwork, because everyone inside the restaurant is fundamental to the service. Harmony is part of respect for the ingredient, which passes through everyone’s hands, even if only for a short time”. WINDS OF CHANGE IN THE KITCHEN A woman in command: a theme in all professions, but is there a “feminine” way to manage the brigade? “We’ve seen that mixed kitchens are more creative, diversity is a strength. I have women, gays, foreigners, my kitchen is a melting pot, a school of life for the young people who come. In the morning they listen to music, there is seriousness, concentration but no prejudice. Women who have to work in kitchens for 95% of men suffer all kinds of harassment, have to dress as a man to have no problems, and are verbally abused,” says Viviana Varese of Alice (Milan). All of them are unanimous in saying that there is no such thing as a female MAGAZINE Viviana Varese Caterina Ceraudo