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August /September 202 2 XI MAGAZINE for that combination of sweet and sour and spicy and, to many, for its supposed wholesomeness, due to the traditional fermentation process expressed in kimchi, napa cabbage and other vegetables fermented with spices, and in gochujang and doenjang sauces. They also like the simplicity of Bibimbap, a bowl of steamed rice, sautéed vegetables, kimchi, egg or meat. Another characteristic is that quite unique mix of high and popular, street food (including snacks, old and new, all very colourful and scenic) and haute cuisine . Try the latter at Hana in Milan. Dish: Kimchi, Bibimbap THAI A cuisine that is geographically adjacent but has its own characteristics, which has always been somewhat crushed by its large Chinese neighbour in our country, despite having a decades-long tradition of restaurants. Thai cuisine is rich and spicy, with coconut and curries of various colours as its hallmarks, and boasts more refined settings than Chinese. In its home country, it is veering decisively towards waste and Zero-kM, plant-based choices and social commitment, as at Haoma and 80/20 in Bangkok. We hope that the same philosophy will also influence the Italian ‘versions’. Dish: Pad Thai VIETNAMESE A refined balance between the East and France, it is far less popular than its neighbours and often offered by high-end, expensive restaurants. Now, however, it may be seeing greater popularity thanks to one of its most popular street foods, the Bánh-mi, a sandwich inspired by the French baguette with various fillings. In the US, numerous locations have already opened that nod at fast food, complete with a drive-in (such as Hughie’s and Saigon Hustle in Houston). The aim: to ‘democratise’ a cuisine that is unique in the oriental scene. Dish: Bánh-mi PHILIPPINES One that’s emerging. Present in our cities (like Milan, which has a community of over 40,000 residents) but until recently frequented mainly by immigrants. Then, thanks to the start of a slightly less niche tourism and the ever-lurking desire for something new, here it blossomed. Starting abroad with the tip of the iceberg of Kasama by Genie Kwon and Timothy Flores, a Chicago restaurant and the first Filipino to receive a Michelin star. But something is also moving over here. What to expect from this cuisine? We went to try it in three Milanese restaurants: Yum, Mabuhay and BBQ-1. We found a varied offer combining almost European dishes (the Spanish influence is evident in the Adobo, a kind of stewed meat with spices), impeccable grilled meats and more surprising proposals such as rice bowls with fruit and desserts made with ube, the bright purple tuber. Dish: Adobo and Ubu cheesecake __________________________________ BOX Young (Oriental) chefs grow up Heading the kitchens of some of the most interesting Oriental restaurants, often fusion, with great attention to aesthetics and presentation, we now find young women who are making their way with a steady hand, innovating and trying to propose something new, yet rooted in tradition. We are thinking of Jun Giovannini (she is from Tokyo, her surname is her Italian husband’s) of Mu Fish in Nova Milanese and Beijing-based Xinge Liu of Il Gusto Dim Sum in Florence. New air and a new approach that shows how oriental cuisine is really raising the bar. “Ethnic”, perhaps, is an adjective that should be put in the basement: let’s rather talk about good cuisine based on childhood memories but ready to welcome, in its preparations and ingredients, influences from all over the world. __________________________________ AT PAGE 36 YOU KNOW WHAT? Catering and taste chains QUALITY AND SATISFACTION READY CULINARY TASTES AND CURIOSITIES, RESTAURANT CHAINS HAVE THE CON- SUMERS’ APPROVAL. FROM PIZZA TO REGIONAL SPECIALITIES WITH PASTA AND MEAT, TO THOSE DISHES THAT HAVE COME TO ITALY FROM AFAR WITH HISTORY BEHIND THEM. THE SUCCESS LIES NOT ONLY IN THE FOOD, BUT AL- SO IN A DYNAMIC FORMAT AND INFOR- MAL, PLEASANT ENVIRONMENTS. by Maddalena Baldini One must be wary and not immediately think only of the classic fast-food restaurant for eating something quick and inexpensive. Today, the panorama is much broader and embraces franchised restaurant chains, which have been present for decades all over the world but increasingly aimed at highlighting and popularising the uniqueness of a dish, a product, a region, a culinary trend or a country. There are many ‘interesting culinary contaminations’ arriving in Italy from abroad but, without a doubt, over the last few decades Made in Italy has conquered a large slice of the market (and success) abroad, even on the other side of the globe. Fipe data from a few months ago stated that the worldwide network of Italian restaurants counts just over 2,200 certified restaurants in 450 different cities located in 60 countries, from Asia to Oceania, from America to Africa, not forgetting, of course, Europe. Significant