QUALITALY_135

July/August 2023 XV MAGAZINE variable size similar to a grain of corn for the ‘semi-hard’ type or to a hazelnut for the ‘soft’ type. The next stages are pressing and salting, and lastly, maturing, the duration of which varies depending on the culinary placement of the cheese. The form is cylindrical, with a diameter of between 15 and 22 cm; the heel is slightly convex, between 7 and 11 cm high and the weight of the wheels varies between 1 and 3.5 kg. The colour of the rind is yellow, but can also be black or reddish if the pieces are treated with tomato, ash and oil. The paste is white to straw-coloured with a delicate but spicy flavour. Table pecorino cheese is best kept in a cool, dry place. According to Tuscan tradition, it should be kept completely immersed in extra virgin olive oil with pepper and bay leaf to maintain its degree of maturity and to enhance its taste characteristics. If it has been matured for a long time, it can be grated. It is excellent for seasoning ribollita, dry pasta dishes and for seasoning meat-based main courses. Sliced, both seasoned and fresh, it goes well with honey, jam, fruit and fresh seasonal vegetables. San Gimignano Saffron Dop The origins of the product in San Gimignano date back to the 13th century. From here it was exported to other Italian markets, especially Pisa and Genoa, and to Eastern and African countries: Alexandria, Tunis, Damietta, Acre, Tripoli and Aleppo. Saffron is obtained exclusively from the red, roasted part of the flower stigmas from the cultivation of the bulb-tuber ‘crocus sativus L.’. Many operations are still carried out by hand as they were in the Middle Ages: the sorting of the bulbs, the picking of the flowers in the early morning hours, the hulling and drying by the fire. It is produced exclusively in the San Gimignano area. Today, San Gimignano saffron is used in both gastronomic and pharmacological applications. It is linked to various typical San Gimignano products, such as bread with vernaccia and schiacciata. Especially in the past, it was the main ingredient in dishes such as pestelli, peverata, agliata, porrata, and some cheeses. Today it is still used to enrich the flavour of many dishes, from rice-based first courses to meat and fish main courses. Colonnata Lard This cured meat takes its name from the small village where it was born, Colonnata, a centre located among the marble quarries of nearby Carrara. Originally, it served to feed the quarrymen, giving them the calories they needed to cope with the hard work in the quarry. To obtain it, back fat from selected pigs is used, salted and matured in special marble vats. The product is rectangular, because it is matured in hollows. Its thickness is no less than 3 centimetres. Its peculiarity is the presence of the rind at the bottom and the salt covering the top, blackened by the herbs and spices used during processing. It is moist, soft and even, but there may be a streak of lean inside it. Its colour is white, slightly pinkish or somewhat burnished. The aroma is fragrant aromatic. The flavour is delicate and fresh, tending to sweet. Excellent cut into thin slices, paired with toasted bread and perhaps accompanied by structured wines. For proper storage, after cutting, the leftover part of the rind should be folded over the body of the lard by wrapping the piece in a damp cloth and placing it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. Ideally, it should be eaten au naturel, cut into thin slices in combination with toasted bread. Excellent pairing with structured wines. __________________________________ AT PAGE 52 RECIPES __________________________________ RECIPE Pici all’aglione A traditional Tuscan peasant recipe, especially from the province of Siena. Ingredients(4 persons): • pici 400 g; • 4 large garlic cloves; • 4 ripe tomatoes; • 1 chilli pepper; • olive oil; • salt to taste Preparation: Cook the pici in boiling water. Crush the garlic cloves and fry them in olive oil over a low flame, avoiding burning them. As soon as the garlic has browned, break up the chilli pepper and add the seeds to the sauté where the chopped tomatoes will eventually be added. Add salt and cook the sauce to thicken and flavour. Once the pici are cooked, drain them and then toss them in the aglione sauce. __________________________________ RECIPE Extracotto Ingredients (6 persons): • Beef 1kg; • bacon 40g; • 4 tablespoons olive oil; • 1 glass red wine; • 500g tomatoes; • 2 carrots; • ½ onion; • 1 celery stalk; • salt and pepper to taste Preparation: With a few thin sticks slice carrots and bacon pieces and rub with salt pepper, then tie with white twine. Put coarsely chopped carrots, celery and onion in a saucepan with oil and cook