QUALITALY 139

May 2024 XV MAGAZINE The marzaioli , which in the Sila region incubate under the snow, sprout in March, the morchelle , also known as sheep’s bellies, appear between May and June on burnt ground, and finally the mazze di tamburo and the gallinelle in the summer months. Also present in some areas are white and black truffles and scorzone , which sprout in summer. Also in the forest areas, special aromatic herbs can be gathered all year round, such as black aniseed , which grows wild, lovage and juniper . Another product widespread in the area, of wild derivation, is resin , on which Antonio Biafora, intrigued by the historical value of this gelatinous compound produced in the leaves, in the past used to preserve wine and pinecones, has made in-depth studies. Let’s take a leap from the inland forests to the cliffs of Tropea, between the Tyrrhenian coasts of Capo Vaticano to Vibo Valentia and Lamezia Terme, where an excellence of Calabrian cuisine, known all over the world, grows luxuriantly: the onion of Tropea , a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) label that we Italians also know as The Red Queen. REFINED MAIN COURSES An ancient land rich in pastures, the region is home to several native breeds of animals, the best known of which are the Calabrian donkey, the Aspromonte goat, the Nicastrese goat, the Capra Rustica di Calabria, the Black Pig of Calabria and the Podolica cow . The meats most commonly consumed throughout the territory are beef, lamb and poultry. But let’s not forget quail, which is also one of the Hyle chef’s most important dishes because it reminds him of his father’s cooking. His father, also a chef, used to serve it with lardo at weddings; today the old recipe has been revisited in a modern way, creating a second course that nods at haute cuisine. Although it boasts an ancient cheese- making tradition, Calabria does not boast any large dairies. Cheese production is almost an exclusive privilege of the many shepherds scattered throughout the Calabrian peninsula who process the milk of sheep, goats and cows. Among Calabrian excellences, Caciocavallo silano tops the list. A stringy cheese with a characteristic pear shape, it is made from fresh whole cow’s milk and is slightly sspicy. Although less well known, Pecorino del Pollino, made from sheep’s milk with a strong, aromatic flavour, is one of the best cheeses of Upper Calabria. And always with sheep’s milk in the Monte Poro mountain range, Pecorino del Monte Poro is produced. Local fresh cheeses include the Ricotta affumicata crotonese , made from whey, with a smoky and slightly sweet flavour, and the Giuncata, which, with its soft texture, is widely used in cooking to prepare traditional dishes. It is also much appreciated spread on bread. At the table, next to good cheese, Italic practice dictates the accompaniment of a good salami, which the region produces plenty of. The best known in the world is Nduja, a typical product of Spilinga, a small municipality in the province of Vibo Valentia. Bright red in colour, it is made from pork and spicy Calabrian chilli pepper . The mixture is creamy and its taste is spicy and pungent. It was born out of the Calabrian peasant society’s need to exploit every part of the pig without eliminating anything. Once a pop product, today it is a sought- after ingredient also used in the gourmet menus of Michelin-starred restaurants. Alongside Nduja, the undisputed queen of Calabrian gastronomy, there are other famous indigenous cured meats, such as Soppressata , a fine salami, knife-cut and made from the best parts of the pig, Capocollo , a cured ham sometimes smoked or flavoured with black pepper, cured pork cheek , Prosciutto di Aieta , which takes its name from the municipality where it is produced in the province of Cosenza, and cured Prosciutto Mammut del Pollino from the Pollino National Park. In most of the cured meats and sausages mentioned, but also in many Calabrian first courses, main courses and desserts, another regional excellence, the Calabrian chilli pepper, cultivated from Pollino to the Strait of Messina , goes well. There are many varieties but only four are certified by the PGI mark: cherry, spire, dog nose and cigarette. Moving from land ‘to water’, trout is one of the prime products of Silan gastronomy. It has been part of the local cultural and culinary heritage for centuries. Although it is a region entirely washed by the sea, paradoxically, Calabrian gastronomy is more inclined towards products of the land rather than the sea. On the Tyrrhenian coasts, the most common fish specialities are amberjack, garfish, sea bass and tuna. On the other hand, on the Ionian coasts, sea bream, sea bass and octopus abound. Bluefin tuna, snapper and grouper, however, are the fish species that make the southern Italian region famous. LAST BUT NOT LEAST Finally, we cannot fail to mention desserts. A famous one is the stomatico, a dry, amber- coloured biscuit typical of the province of Reggio Calabria, especially the Grecanica area, which is kneaded with flour, sugar, liqueur and almonds. Its name derives from the Greek stomachico meaning good for the stomach . Excellent for its digestive properties. Traditionally, it is served at the end of a meal with a glass of liqueur. The other dessert not to be missed around Vibo Valentia is the ‘tartufo di pizzo’ , invented in the 1950s by pastry chef Giuseppe de Maria on the occasion of a visit to the city by a prince. This is an ice cream that has been awarded the PGI label for its high quality. Its ingredients are milk, sugar, cocoa, eggs and hazelnut. It is composed of two scoops, one filled with chocolate, the other with hazelnut, strictly handmade.