QUALITALY 140
June/July 2024 XIII MAGAZINE Unlike Calabria, the protagonist region of the previous stage, which has several PDO and PGI products, Molise has six recognised certifications, of which only the ‘Molise Olio extra vergine’ PDO is exclusively Molise, the other five are shared with neighbouring regions: Caciocavallo silano PDO with Campania, Puglia, Basilicata and Calabria; Mozzarella and Ricotta di Bufala Campana PDO , with Lazio, Campania, Puglia; Salamino italiano alla cacciatora PDO , with Emilia Romagna, Marche, Umbria and Abruzzo; an Igp Vitellone bianco dell’Appennino centrale with Emila Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Marche, Lazio, Abruzzo and Campania. Molise also has a large basket of Traditional Speciality Guaranteed products classified for over 25 years such as: il Tartufo Bianco Dop ; il Pampanella di San Martino Dop o Igp ; la Ventricina di Montenero di Bisaccia Dop ; la Scamorza di Bojano Dop ; la Stracciata di Agnone ; il Pane di Longano and/or il Pane d Venafro Igp ; Brodetto alla termolese di Tornola Igp ; Salsiccia di Pietracatella; Fagiolo bianco di Acquaviva di Isernia Dop; Signora di Conca Casale Dop; Capra di Montefalcone; Ostie di Agnone ; Torcinelli del Molise; Mozzarella STG. INLAND MOLISE: A MAZE OF DISCOVERIES It is home to true organic products thanks to the region’s diversity, which ranges from the high Apennine altitudes with a continental climate, to the Mediterranean seaside areas whose distances can be covered in about an hour. This is a suitable land for producing ancient native grains and vines: among those worthy of mention are Senatore Cappelli , Saragolla , Gentil Rosso, Solina and Agostinello ; among the vines, Tintilia stands out. Grains from this area have a small amount of gluten, are very digestible, and it should be pointed out that the indigenous species are more resistant, so they do not require chemicals for their production; therefore, they are naturally organic and healthier. A land of grain, therefore, is a land of pasta and bread: Molise boasts an ancient tradition in bread-making, just like Puglia and Campania. Among the many traditional breads is the Parrozzo or Pan Rozzo Molisano , a simple product prepared with poor ingredients such as potatoes and corn or agostiniello maize, grown in the fields of the region. It is an ear of corn with eight rows of grains, which in the local dialect is called granedinje (Indian wheat grain), i.e. wheat from the New World. With the same flour, the housewives prepare pizz ‘e granedinje, a flat bread without yeast, mixed with maize flour, water and salt. This recipe is made on the hot stone of the fireplace, under the coppa or sesto , a kind of high lid that is sprinkled with embers, forming the cooking chamber inside. PASTA&CO. The pasta shapes are diverse, some of them resembling those of neighbouring regions such as quadrucci , sagne and fusilli. The most representative pasta is the Cazzarille , also called ciufele or cavatielle ‘ncatenate , i.e. cavatelli , an elongated pasta made from durum wheat semolina and water. Its origins date back to the time of Frederick II. Locally, Cazzarielle is served with a ragout or pork sauce, or with cardoncelli or broccoli, which is called spigatelli here. In Montenero di Bisaccia, a village that has been known for several decades for being the birthplace of Antonio Di Pietro, the former magistrate symbol of Mani Pulite and Member of the European Parliament, the traditional village dish is cuzzutilli , mixed with Ventricina di Montenero , a cured meat made from thighs, loin, shoulders and a part of hard fat. Traditionally, they are seasoned with salt, wild fennel, bell pepper powder and pepper. Also widespread throughout the territory are cecatelli and vredocchie, hand-made gnocchetti. The latter originate from Santa Croce di Magliano where they are seasoned with broccoli, oil and chilli pepper. In these parts, the pasta industry plays an important role in the regional economy. There are ten pasta factories in the two provinces, two in Isernia and eight in Campobasso, some of which are world- famous. The conspicuous production of wheat, cereals and grains is also synonymous with livestock breeding and grazing. Sheep grazing is particularly widespread. The most common breed is the Pagliarola, reared in the wild in small flocks. Its name comes from the cattle that are fed mainly with wheat straw during the winter. Their wool is suitable for coarse textiles and their meat and milk production, despite their poor diet, are fairly appreciable: that of milk is around 60-70 kg. Throughout the bio-territory of the Molise region in the area between the municipalities of Montefalcone, Acquaviva Colle Croci, S. Felice del Molise, Montemitro and Castelmauro, and especially in the municipality of Montefalcone, the Grigia molisana is present. This breed is carefully bred and selected according to ancient local traditions. Today there are about 150 animals on 10 farms. The peculiarities that distinguish the Grigia molisana are the dark silvery grey coat and the uniform light colour over the entire body; the generally large and long head , with a slightly snub-nosed profile; the horns, present in both sexes, diverge, and are flattened on the sides of the Gargano type; in individuals over 10 years old they reach a length of 50/60 cm. Polled sheep are also found, reared in the mountains and hills in a semi-wild, wild and migratory system that feed on the scarce forage resources of the Mediterranean maquis. Grigia Molisana’s
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