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pleasure of the customer does not end
with the last bite, but with digestion.
A dish cannot just be good, sometimes
even great, but free from any reflection
on the increasingly urgent demand for
health by the people.”
So the theme of well-being becomes
central, without necessarily having to
think about to give up meat and fish. “A
voracious intelligence - concludes Marchi
- because customers do not have to fill
the containers or plucking chickens.
Intelligence at 360 °. It’s because the
health and the pleasure come to the table
and then proceed hand in hand.”
A congress that already connects affinity
of topics at the upcoming Expo (centered
on the great theme “Feeding the Planet.
Energy for life”), where Identità Golose
may be present with an important
space, as advocated by the government
commissioner of the Expo, Giuseppe
Sala.
CREATIVITY AND TECHNOLOGY. The
responsibility of opening the proceedings
of the congress is up to Pino Cuttaia (La
Madia, Licata), which is played all over
“but it seems it is not.” And so it builds
on the inventions of Hispanic cuisine
and creates a fake egg with the cuttlefish,
whose yolk is black ink, using only the
cuttlefish eggs as a thickener ; or pretend
pizza, with afumicato cod and potato
foam.
The Costardi bros (Cinzia, Vercelli),
tell them to do the playful side of the
kitchen, of their being in a sense still
“children” with all that this entails
curiosity, which makes them discover
new combinations and recipes. As the
“thousand follies”: chocolate cream,
powdered mushrooms, truffle oil,
caramelized puff pastry and chlorophyll
parsley. Or we have the milk and
pumpkin risotto with pumpkin that
becomes a colorful scoop of ice cream
nitrogen.
Carlo Cracco, abandoned the role of
the judge of Master Chef, is a lesson on
kidney sauce china, which brings back
elaborating cooking: baking paper, just
warmed with salt and spices, and served
with scalloped “spaghetti” of salsify, veal
sauce and extraction of red ink.
The intelligence is also noticed in the
use of technology in the kitchen, like
Heinz Beck, award-winning chef of the
year by Identità Golose, has been shown.
Working on the liquid and the centrifuge
laboratory created “I remember frisella”,
extracting the aroma of tomato and
olives to dress malt dextrin, accompanied
by a tartar of prawns. And if the plays
well with one of the Milanese dishes
for excellence, proposing “Absence
ossobuco”, which is the essence of
ossobuco, a kind of concentrate rich in
flavor.
RIGHT ALIMENTATION. Davide Scabin,
imaginative and modern, is one of
the “greats” of our local haute cuisine
which is working on the front of the
kitchen to greet: he is working with the
gastroenterologist Matteo Goss, creator
of Turin Food Cleanique where you try
to guide patients, together allergists
and dieticians, to proper nutrition.
So studying courses that may also be
suitable for those suffering from health
problems, such as veal cutlet marinated
with herbs, maple syrup and soy,
which meets the taste changes to those
affected by cycles of chemotherapy. For
people with celiac disease, however,
gluten free fried pasta with prosciutto
and mozzarella, while for those with
irritable bowel syndrome, a dish rich in
tryptophan, amino acid “miraculous”,
based on rack of lamb and egg sauce. It’s
a commendable effort.
Nico Romito three stars from this year
for his Reale at Castel di Sangro, says:
“The kitchen must be silent, we cooks
have to take a step back and talk to the
kitchen.” The summary of his thinking is
in the pot, which must be able to “talk”
to all; Romito so with a movie tells the
essence of the ingredients, presenting
dishes made from four bases (shrimp,
artichokes, almonds and sea bass), four
elements that otherwise cross between
them can give life to countless dishes.
Because the base of the artichoke steam
smoothie, separate the solids from the
liquid, it becomes passe-partout of
different recipes, from salt cod risotto
with roasted artichoke itself, which thus
acquires additional strength.
In short, we study in detail, deepens
the approach to the raw material, apply
techniques that help you to extract,
concentrate, flavor, cook in respect of the
ingredients, we study combinations that
go beyond the separation between sweet
and salty, also playing on ‘ surprise effect
of dishes that look like something but
they are anything but. Because one thing
is certain: the need to overcome a pure
and simple nutrition, which dines out
of the house today looking for pleasure,
fun, well being and emotions. Those are
things that require a kitchen really smart.
Study and innovation around the pizza
The theme of “greedy intelligence”
could not also cover the pizza, specialty
beloved and widespread as sometimes
made with little care. You don’t go to
look for the rare ingredient that ennobles
the disc of dough, but this is just part of
a study of flour, yeast and sprouted that
make the pizza light and easily digestible.
And the stars of “Identity pizza “ you are
very active in this area.
So Simone Padoan (I Tigli, San Bonifacio)
tells his insights on seven different
types of leavened products he uses in
his restaurant, made with sourdough
starter (he has one for the preparation of
sweets and one for savory), various types
of flour and germinated wheat. Change
of scene, comes Franco Pepe (Pepe in
Grani, Caiazzo) for his lecture on the
pizza, whose “intelligence” is centered on
the use of raw land: not a simple slogan,
but the rediscovery of authentic products
from large flavors. And it comes with a
suitcase full of the products of Caserta,
including “his” flour from local grains.
Benjamin Bilali (pizza chef consultant),
pastes studied with gluten-free sprouted
buckwheat, useful to give a good
structure to the dough, suitable for celiac,
while Fiorella and Roberto Ghisolfi (Lo
Spicchio, Cremona) have 5 types of yeast
by different germinated (eg. buckwheat,
chickpea). Proving that even a pizza by
the slice, if done well, it can satisfy your
stomach with intelligence and customer
portfolio.
Look at the congress: trends and
insights
• The high contemporary kitchen has
moved far to bitter and sour flavors
• Vegetables are the new cult ingredient
of cooks
• The pasta extruded through bronze is
not better or worse than Teflon; the first
absorbs more liquid, the second takes
better cooking.
• Boil the potatoes in water saturated
with salt (300 g / liter) prevents loss of
mineral salts and lose internal moisture
potatoes (about 10 %)
• The service of cutlery must follow the
functionality and not the stereotypes:
with certain types of pasta large (eg.
paccheri) is useful to have the table also
the knife
• Choose large cuts of meat portioning
allows reducing purchasing costs and
reduces waste
Identità Golose in pills
Location: Milan
Duration: 3 days
Theme: A voracious intelligence
Speakers: 90 between Italian and
foreign
Visitors: over 15 thousand
Companies present: more than 70
