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the end of cooking – he explains – to
characterize the fish with a smoked
taste and give it that much-liked
marking which makes the mouth water.
But I do not cook it directly on the grill,
but first I treat it at a low temperature,
then I finish it. “There’s the eastern
influence present in another dish. “For
example in September we add to the
menu rice with saffron from Vesuvius
and tuna Hagashi, it is half-cooked: a
parallelpipe of raw tuna on the plate/
barbecue and I bake it on one side
leaving half of it raw, then add it to
rice.”
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BOX
DIVINE…SHADES
It is not obvious which wine to choose
to evaporate on the fish. “You don’t
use a good wine for evaporation –
emphasizes Pucci – in every dish.
We use an aglianico or a falanghina,
but in most cases you end up using
a wine in brik, without thinking
that the evaporation customizes and
characterizes a fish dish. The same is
true of spirits. They must be of good
quality.”
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BOX
ALL IN ONE
Vacuum machine, blast chiller,
combined oven - all necessary in
a professional kitchen where you
want to prepare fish skilfully and
in complete safety. The integrated
Combi Combistar FX system, Blitz
blast chiller and Angelo Po vacuum
machine allow you to manage
easily and economically in one step
the processes of fish preparation:
vacuum closure, cooking, chilling,
refrigeration, improving the taste,
preservation and safety.
The advantages of the solution are
numerous. The shelf life of the food
increases from 2 to 4 times compared
to normal storage in a refrigerated
environment, the hygienic conditions
are in line with HACCP methods, less
preservatives and bland preservation
treatments are required and the
nutritional value remains unchanged.
The loss of liquids is reduced to a
minimum, leading to a better cook.
The system allows the reduction of
waste and
the optimization of seasonal product
purchases, in addition to working
times, for a better customer service.
______________________________
BOX
ANISAKIS: WHAT THE LAW SAYS
The most recent enemy (or rather
one that has always been present,
but it has become relevant since raw
fish has become a fad) of raw fish
lovers is Anisakis, a parasite with
long larvae up to 1-2 cm that can be
found in the meat of some species
of fish and once ingested, if it lives,
causes a disease called Anisakiasis.
The most involved species are
those typical of our seas: The silver
scabbardfish caught in the seas of
Sicily is 100% infested by Anisakis
and for this it must be quickly gutted
before sale. Tuna, horse mackerel,
hake, salmon (mainly not farmed),
anglerfish (or monkfish), anchovies,
skipjack, bass, sea bream, amberjack,
mackerel, bream, mackerel have
instead varying percentages of
infestation from 1 to 40% and finally
the molluscs such as cuttlefish, squid
and squid.
To inactivate the larva, the fish
must be cooked at least 60 °c or, in
case of raw consumption, subject
it to preventive chilling. The law
specifies that the restaurateur, before
preparing the dishes, must freeze the
fish at least for 24 hours at -20 °c.
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AT PAGE 52
Take it with a pinch
of salt
Salt is the ingredient that we often
take for granted but it is useful to
give a unique identity and a touch of
exclusivity to the dish
By Maria Elena Dipace In collaboration with
Italian Food Academy
There is an Arab saying that reads, “If
we divided the water and the salt we
are brothers.”
The ingredient has an obvious
intrinsic value – the shape, the
aroma, the consistency, the taste,
the composition and an intangible
extrinsic component – the
geographical and biological origin
that produced it, the physical and
cultural environment in which
it developed, the history and
the religion that influenced its
preservation, preparation and
consumption. Salt was the element
which first travelled around the
world and is common to all cultures,
making it possible to preserve,
transport and, not least, to season
meat, fish and vegetables and it still
determines the success of a dish.
Moreover, salt is the ingredient that