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we often take for granted and which
instead contained in a simple formula
- and in its fossil and marine variants -
traces of our geological history.
If we want to give a unique identity or
a touch of exclusivity to the dish, it is
better to use ‘fine salts’.
An expensive but highly sought after
example is the fleur de Sel of Brittany,
also harvested in the Camargue and
the Algarve. It emerges first from
the water and maintains a moist
appearance and a scent of the ocean.
It is considered elegant, but it is
also trendy, because it has a less
“salty” effect (just look at awareness
campaigns for the reduction of salt in
the dishes). It’s great to make a sashimi
of salmon in parsley sauce that sees
the salmon fillets, of about 15 g each,
served on croutons of buttered bread
and flavoured with fennel and ribes.
Beautiful pink Himalayan Salt, 200
million years old, which brings with
it the soul of the mountain that
protected it during the crystallization
process. Pure and uncontaminated,
it still reaches us from the plateau of
6000 meters on the back of a yak.
The grains bring out the flavour of
salads of vegetables or fruit like the
kiwi salad where the sour taste of fruit
(kiwi, apple, grape) is blended with
crab pulp and pearl barley to exalt
the bittersweet of an aged balsamic
vinegar and Himalayan salt that,
mixed with food, offer variations of
taste due to the subsequent breaking-
up of the grains. Also tasty and
expensive is the Danish smoked salt,
still prepared with the method used by
the Vikings, which expose the grains of
salt to the smoke of oak wood and red
elm. A salt with a colour and a strong
taste that enriches even simple dishes
with personality such as salted soup.
Zucchini, carrots, cherry tomatoes,
onions, borlotti and cannelloni
beans, peas, black cabbage, new
potatoes, create an agreement
of flavours far from those of any
package that is not a fragrant extra
virgin olive oil and a pinch (not a
hint) of Danish smoked salt.
Decorative and rich in iron the red salt
of Hawaii (the colour comes from the
clay of volcanic origin) is wonderful
on grilled meats and in some cases
also on desserts. So too also the salt of
Maldon (the favourite of Ferran Adrià)
that for crispness used the pyramid
grains also on chocolate.
MADE IN ITALY
But returning with “feet on the
ground”, in Italy we can boast
excellent and ancient salts like the
Sicilian salt of Mothia (already dear
to the Phoenicians) and the salt of
Cervia known to most as “Sweet Salt”
(free of bitter elements).
It is an unrefined sea salt, mineral
rich and harvested by hand.
Mediterranean at the right point
to accompany tasty eggplant rolls
slightly grilled and marinated in oil,
parsley, chilli pepper and sugar that
envelop the exquisite tails of Mazara
del Vallo shrimp, sautéed in oil, garlic
and sprinkled with balsamic vinegar
while still hot.
In the end, the task of the manager
or the restaurateur is before
anything else, to accommodate.
Accommodating does not just
mean serving good food or sourced
products but “giving that added
value” which means knowledge, a
unique feeling, the positive memory
so that the guest (never to be
considered as just a customer) goes
away full but not filled, satisfied
but not fulfilled, intoxicated but not
stunned. Like those who have started
a journey they intend to continue in
the flavours and sensations that your
food-world can offer.
MAGAZINE