AGO. SET. 2017
VIII
even making it the identifying product
of the locale. Their baker cousins,
attracted also by the very strong
marketing of the moment, could do
nothing other than begin to produce
bread and various products with the
same dye additive.
There began a contest to show the
audience how black pizza was made
and on television doctors appeared
(note “doctors” talking about
doughs for bread and pizza!) that
even described the pharmacological
benefits of plant charcoal in the
dough, confusing the action of the
pharmacological version of the
element, with that of the additive E153.
Dr. Simona Lauri, food technologist,
reports: “Given the pharmacological
implications and the use in medicine
of this substance as it stands in
physiological and pathologic states
which necessitate its use under strict
medical supervision, there are no
current state of the art, scientific
studies that allow to translate such
medical information by making them
scientifically truthful when that
substance is used in dough for bread
and bakery products in general. “
“The biochemical, microbiological,
physical and chemical-physical
situation of the production process
of these products – continues Dr.
Lauri – is very complex with no
exceptions (in fact very probable
given the peculiar characteristic of
the adsorbent power of the charcoal),
chemical and biochemical interactions
with pathogenic and molecular
components (water, proteins, lipids,
complex carbohydrates, simple sugars,
mineral salts, etc.) naturally present
in the dough, in addition to the
absence of specific scientific studies
and publications on bread and bakery
products that highlight chemical and
chemical-physical interactions and
the concentration of carcinogenic
residues on the finished product after
further heated cooking treatment. The
American FDA does not allow it while
the European EFSA has considered
it safe as of 12.07.12 based on the
concentration of PHA, but has not
expressed itself completely on bakery
products”.
______________________________
BOX
... AND REMEMBER, THE USE OF
DYES, IN BREAD AND PIZZA, IS
FORBIDDEN!
In the bakery sector, even before the
entry into force of Reg. EU 1129/2011
amending Annex II to Reg. CE
1333/2008, the laws regarding the
hygienic discipline of the production
and sale of food, sanctions and food
additives allowed, existed the laws
283/62 and MD 209/96 in which the
specific annex IV stated that: flour and
other milling products, starches as
well as bread and similar products etc.
were not to contain any dye and annex
III of the same MD 209/96 identified
the vegetable charcoal (E153) as a dye
additive. The above Law permitted
its use only and exclusively in fine
bakery products in addition to those
of confectionery.
The entry into force of Reg. EU
1129/2011 Part B reiterates and
includes E153 plant charcoal in the
category of colouring additives. With
reference, however, to the specific
sector of “Arte Bianca” (confectionery),
Part 2 of the same Reg. UE 1129/2011
does not allow the use of any dye in:
not only BREAD AND SIMILAR
PRODUCTS, but in no ingredient used
to prepare the said product: WATER,
FLOUR, SALT, MALT, SUGAR, HONEY,
BUTTER AND MILK. Continuing,
in the current and existing EU Reg.
1129/2011, part E 07 (07.1, 07.2)
reiterates that – E153 is allowed
quantum satis only and exclusively in
fine baked goods (07.2) and
Not in bakery products – breads and
sandwiches etc. (07.1).
In addition, the guidance document
describes the food categories in part
E of Annex II to (EC) Regulation No.
1333/2008 on food Additives carries
an additional description of the food
categories listed in Reg. CE 1333/2008
distinguishing a further specification
on the products included in the
wording Cereals and cereal Products
(06) and Bakery wares (07). For those
who read that guide carefully there
appears a slight discrepancy between
the European and Italian standards
regarding rusks and crackers.
______________________________
AT PAGE 26
I like to surprise!
The restaurant Il Focolare di
Collecorvino (PE) is the synthesis of
resourcefulness and fine flavours.
At its helm, directly from the
stove, is Lucrezia D’Arcangelo,
an unsophisticated woman with
great creativity... to the joy of her
customers!
By Maddalena Baldini
The breath-taking view deserves a
trip. If to the landscape one combines
a cuisine of excellence, made of
refined, quality ingredients and skill
as well as a close bond with tradition,
it’s a winner. We are in the province
of Pescara, in a hilly area (about 300
meters above sea level) and here
rises the village of Collecorvino:
with just over 5,000 inhabitants, all
characterized by resourcefulness, a
battling spirit – the origins and the
name of the place date back to the
King Corbino of Lombard lineage,
from around the tenth century – and
the desire to eat “properly”!
Here the memory of the fine food of
Abruzzo is what is forever anchored,
a bond that, despite everything,
does not forbid the interpretation
of historical recipes with an eye of
modernity and desire to move with
the times... in perpetual change just
MAGAZINE