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AGO. SET. 2017

VIII

even making it the identifying product

of the locale. Their baker cousins,

attracted also by the very strong

marketing of the moment, could do

nothing other than begin to produce

bread and various products with the

same dye additive.

There began a contest to show the

audience how black pizza was made

and on television doctors appeared

(note “doctors” talking about

doughs for bread and pizza!) that

even described the pharmacological

benefits of plant charcoal in the

dough, confusing the action of the

pharmacological version of the

element, with that of the additive E153.

Dr. Simona Lauri, food technologist,

reports: “Given the pharmacological

implications and the use in medicine

of this substance as it stands in

physiological and pathologic states

which necessitate its use under strict

medical supervision, there are no

current state of the art, scientific

studies that allow to translate such

medical information by making them

scientifically truthful when that

substance is used in dough for bread

and bakery products in general. “

“The biochemical, microbiological,

physical and chemical-physical

situation of the production process

of these products – continues Dr.

Lauri – is very complex with no

exceptions (in fact very probable

given the peculiar characteristic of

the adsorbent power of the charcoal),

chemical and biochemical interactions

with pathogenic and molecular

components (water, proteins, lipids,

complex carbohydrates, simple sugars,

mineral salts, etc.) naturally present

in the dough, in addition to the

absence of specific scientific studies

and publications on bread and bakery

products that highlight chemical and

chemical-physical interactions and

the concentration of carcinogenic

residues on the finished product after

further heated cooking treatment. The

American FDA does not allow it while

the European EFSA has considered

it safe as of 12.07.12 based on the

concentration of PHA, but has not

expressed itself completely on bakery

products”.

______________________________

BOX

... AND REMEMBER, THE USE OF

DYES, IN BREAD AND PIZZA, IS

FORBIDDEN!

In the bakery sector, even before the

entry into force of Reg. EU 1129/2011

amending Annex II to Reg. CE

1333/2008, the laws regarding the

hygienic discipline of the production

and sale of food, sanctions and food

additives allowed, existed the laws

283/62 and MD 209/96 in which the

specific annex IV stated that: flour and

other milling products, starches as

well as bread and similar products etc.

were not to contain any dye and annex

III of the same MD 209/96 identified

the vegetable charcoal (E153) as a dye

additive. The above Law permitted

its use only and exclusively in fine

bakery products in addition to those

of confectionery.

The entry into force of Reg. EU

1129/2011 Part B reiterates and

includes E153 plant charcoal in the

category of colouring additives. With

reference, however, to the specific

sector of “Arte Bianca” (confectionery),

Part 2 of the same Reg. UE 1129/2011

does not allow the use of any dye in:

not only BREAD AND SIMILAR

PRODUCTS, but in no ingredient used

to prepare the said product: WATER,

FLOUR, SALT, MALT, SUGAR, HONEY,

BUTTER AND MILK. Continuing,

in the current and existing EU Reg.

1129/2011, part E 07 (07.1, 07.2)

reiterates that – E153 is allowed

quantum satis only and exclusively in

fine baked goods (07.2) and

Not in bakery products – breads and

sandwiches etc. (07.1).

In addition, the guidance document

describes the food categories in part

E of Annex II to (EC) Regulation No.

1333/2008 on food Additives carries

an additional description of the food

categories listed in Reg. CE 1333/2008

distinguishing a further specification

on the products included in the

wording Cereals and cereal Products

(06) and Bakery wares (07). For those

who read that guide carefully there

appears a slight discrepancy between

the European and Italian standards

regarding rusks and crackers.

______________________________

AT PAGE 26

I like to surprise!

The restaurant Il Focolare di

Collecorvino (PE) is the synthesis of

resourcefulness and fine flavours.

At its helm, directly from the

stove, is Lucrezia D’Arcangelo,

an unsophisticated woman with

great creativity... to the joy of her

customers!

By Maddalena Baldini

The breath-taking view deserves a

trip. If to the landscape one combines

a cuisine of excellence, made of

refined, quality ingredients and skill

as well as a close bond with tradition,

it’s a winner. We are in the province

of Pescara, in a hilly area (about 300

meters above sea level) and here

rises the village of Collecorvino:

with just over 5,000 inhabitants, all

characterized by resourcefulness, a

battling spirit – the origins and the

name of the place date back to the

King Corbino of Lombard lineage,

from around the tenth century – and

the desire to eat “properly”!

Here the memory of the fine food of

Abruzzo is what is forever anchored,

a bond that, despite everything,

does not forbid the interpretation

of historical recipes with an eye of

modernity and desire to move with

the times... in perpetual change just

MAGAZINE